BANGING AROUND BANGKOK

The streets were nearly deserted as we hurtled along Silom Road and away from Patpong. Turning onto Rama IV Road at the Lumpini traffic exchange we headed towards Klong Toey, Bangkok’s over-crowded and run down slum/ghetto. Passing late night porters on their way to and from the market, and the others that were up at this ungodly hour, the taxi driver made his way deeper into the bowels of the district. Being in Klong Toey, home to addicts and pushers, the poor and the homeless, and a myriad of mafia owned, underground businesses, such as casinos and opium dens, made Sai prod and question Noi more. Noi told her again to be patient and enjoy the mystery.

After one last direction from Noi the taxi pulled up in front of a run down and dirty shop house. Why were we stopping here? There seemed to be nothing open or even habitable. We disembarked and paid the taxi, and then the three of us took each other by the hand as Noi led the way.

Down a narrow alley and behind the shop house was a faintly lit doorway. Just as the light from the door cast itself across our path a menacing figure obstructed our way. Noi casually withdrew a 500 Baht note from her pocket, gave it to the man who then stepped aside and allowed us to enter. The landing stank from rancid nam pla, and urine and the walls were covered with grime. As Noi mounted the first step Sai muttered to herself that Noi had so far out done herself, and that maybe this wasn’t such a good idea, birthday or not.

Noi laughed back at her and sarcastically asked her if she was the same girl, now that she was “older and more mature”. Sai took up the challenge and pressed Noi to pick up the pace. As we approached the fifth and top floor of the building we could hear sounds coming towards us, and the sweet smell of opium hung in the air.

The figure at the door nodded to Noi in a familiar way. He then led us to a spot against the far wall, near a window overlooking the klong that ran past; its pungent-watery aroma making its way up to where we were. As I looked around the room at the odd lot of men and women lying about, and saw the beautiful city lights across the skyline through the broken glass of a window, it struck me how much I enjoyed the juxtaposed atmosphere of it all. Nineteen years old and already so depraved.